How to lay turf
Stage 1:
Ensure that the ground is free of the following weeds as they will come through the new turf:
- Dockens
- Thistles
- Dandelions
Dig these weeds out right to the base of the root, or spray with Glyphosate (Roundup) or MCPA (Thistles).
Stage 2:
Ensure that any underlying compaction or drainage problems have been addressed.
Q How do I know if I have compaction?
A You should be able to easily push a spike or fork 8” into ground
If you do have serious drainage problems, follow this link to learn how to create a suitable environment to turf to develop:
Link to “how to drain page”
The best way to aerate the ground is with a fork, pushing it all the way in to the ground and levering up a bit to cause the ground to heave and crack. Do this every 12”
Stage 3:
Once the aeration is done, cultivate the top 2” by fork or rotovate to allow raking and rooting.
Stage 4:
Next, take your time and rake the surface level. Invest in a landscape rake or trulute, they have a reverse side called a grading bar which is a big help for levelling. Do not leave dips or hollows in the new area as water will collect, have all slopes leading to the outside edge of the grass. Use topsoil or topdressing to adjust ground levels. Here are links to our recommended products:
Graded turfing topsoil: www.turfandstuff.com/product.php?xProd=7&xSec=7
Topdressing: www.turfandstuff.com/product.php?xProd=146&xSec=7
Stage 5:
If the ground is loose at this stage due to addition of new topsoil or deep cultivation then you must roll or heel the ground to firm it. Heeling is when you walk back and forth on the area walking only on your heels. This produces a good, firm profile. If you have built up deep levels, best practice is to wait for nature to cause consolidation and slumping to occur (1-2 months depending on rain fall).
Stage 6:
Next sprinkle pre-turfing fertiliser evenly over the area. Rake lightly to incorporate it and give the finished smooth surface. Follow this link for the suitable fertiliser for this task:
www.turfandstuff.com/product.php?xProd=207
Stage 7:
Finally, it is time to lay the turf. You can either lay whilst standing on the prepared ground or whilst standing on laid turf with the use of boards to prevent marking your new lawn. If you stand on the soil, give each new row a light rake to remove your foot marks.
Stage 8:
Start from a long straight edge and roll out the turf. DO NOT stretch the turf or you will get shrinkage later. Make sure and butt all joins up tightly. Do not have turf overlapping on top of other turf.
Stage 9:
You do not need to roll or tamp the turf at this stage except at the joins or edges.
Stage 10:
Lay your next row making sure that, like brickwork, you overlap the joins. Do not use small cuttings at edges of lawn. Use them in the middle.
Stage 11:
When you are done, unless a good amount of rain is forecast, you must water the grass. This must be a very good soak, it may take several hours of sprinkler to put on enough. This must be repeated regularly for 1 month.
Stage 12:
The last stage is to stand back and admire your handiwork and your new lawn.
Stage 13:
Mow at a high level after 2-3 weeks, gradually bringing the cutting level down to ¾” at the lowest.
Stage 14:
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